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Warm Crispy-Creamy Chocolate “Doughnuts”

Industrial technology is making its way more and more into the pastry kitchen and allowing us to create new textures. Here, the “doughnuts” are made with a creamy ganache. The alginate and lactate work to maintain the shape of the doughnuts, and the Methocel prevents the ganache from running while they fry. The result is a warm creamy ganache encased in a super-crisp panko coating. Having a scale is essential for this recipe.

Recipe information

  • Yield

    serves 4 on it¿s own or 8 as part of fourplay

Ingredients

For the Alginate Base

144

g cold water

3

g sodium alginate

For the Doughnuts

87

g heavy cream

65

g water

12

g sugar

9

g Methocel A16-SG

146

g bittersweet chocolate (preferably Valrhona Manjari 64% cacao), chopped

143

g alginate base

1

.5g coarse salt

(makes 30 mini doughnuts)

For the Calcium Bath

1

,000g water

20

g calcium lactate

To Finish the Doughnuts (see note)

100

g panko

0

.5g coarse salt

1

large egg

1

large egg yolk

12

g all-purpose flour

To Serve

Canola oil for frying

Fleur de sel

Need to make a substitution?

Preparation

  1. For the Alginate Base

    Step 1

    Put the water in a blender. Turn it on to medium speed. Add the sodium alginate a few grains at a time so it won’t clump. Once it’s all in, blend on high speed for 1 minute.

  2. For the Doughnuts

    Step 2

    Put the cream and water in a small saucepan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat.

    Step 3

    Mix the sugar and Methocel A16-SG and whisk into the hot liquid. Transfer to a blender and blend on high speed for 1 minute.

    Step 4

    Put the chocolate in a glass bowl and microwave for 30 seconds. Pour about one-third of the hot liquid into the center and stir from the center out. Repeat, pouring in another one-third of the liquid and stirring. Add the remaining liquid and stir to make an emulsion. Stir in the alginate base and a pinch of salt. Mix until completely homogenous.

    Step 5

    Transfer the batter to a pastry bag and pipe into mini savarin molds. Alternatively, you could spread the batter into a 9 x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet. Freeze overnight.

  3. For the Calcium Bath

    Step 6

    Bring the water to a simmer. Whisk in the calcium and pour into a blender. Blend on high for 1 minute. Pour into a hotel pan (or a roasting pan) and refrigerate overnight.

  4. To Finish the Doughnuts (see note)

    Step 7

    Drop the frozen doughnuts into the calcium bath. (If you’ve frozen the batter in a sheet pan, use a 1 3/4-inch cutter to cut out rounds.) Let soak for 5 minutes. Remove and let dry completely on a baking sheet lined with paper towels.

    Step 8

    Put the panko in a food processor with the salt and pulse a few times to make semi-fine crumbs. Transfer to a shallow bowl.

    Step 9

    Beat the egg and egg yolk together in a bowl. Add the flour and whisk until smooth.

    Step 10

    Dip each doughnut into the egg wash, then into the panko. Place on a rack, set the rack over a pan, and refrigerate overnight to dry.

  5. To Serve

    Step 11

    Heat at least 3 inches of canola oil in a large, deep saucepan to 375°F. Fry the doughnuts, a few at a time, until the coating is golden, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain on paper towels, sprinkle with fleur de sel, and serve immediately.

Reprinted with permission from Dessert Fourplay: Sweet Quartets from a Four-Star Pastry Chef by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Copyright © 2008 by Johnny Iuzzini and Roy Finamore. Published by Crown Publishing. All Rights Reserved. Johnny Iuzzini,, executive pastry chef of the world-renowned Jean Georges restaurant in New York City, won the award for Outstanding Pastry Chef from the James Beard Foundation in 2006. This is his first book. Roy Finamore, a publishing veteran of more than thirty years, has worked with many bestselling cookbook authors. He is the author of three books: One Potato, Two Potato; Tasty, which won a James Beard Foundation award; and Fish Without a Doubt.__